
The trouble with last times is that even when you know that it is the last time, it never really registers that the last time actually means never again. You would think, that when you know that it is a last time, you would savour every moment, hang on to every nuance, but you don't, because endings are always beginnings too, and last times are either welcomed or sentimentally toasted and forgotten in the whirl of moving forward. It is not until they are seen in retrospect that nostalgia, regret, creeps up and gooses you. Years, decades, later it comes as a bit of a shock when you read it as historical fact that someone else found interesting enough to mention in passing, that the ‘last time’ for yourself really was the last time it happened. When you are young, and you absorb the passing of days, months seasons as tied to activities on the land, the appearance of the field crops as well as the colours of the trees, you know that you are part of this land, the soil, the earth, the rhythm, and that these things have happened so forever and will probably go on happening forever. Obviously there are changes, and you urge and welcome changes, because you are young and reject the conservatism of the old people. You are young, you yearn for progress, but you still expect the constants to stay just so even though you never try to make sense of the contradictions.
In Spring 1974, with the European Economic Community, and all that stood for with the ‘Common Agricultural Policy it was inevitable that the day of the bitter hop was over, at least in the small commercial quantities we grew. Even so, it seemed impossible that it would be the last time that the hop garden would be strung in spring; the last time passengers on the top deck of the Aldershot and District Traction Company number 9 bus would see Zeb going up and down the rows as he had done for the last 20 years since had he started work on the farm at 14 years of age, constructing the web which looked so complex to me, but which he appeared to be doing with his eyes shut, replacing broken hooks that secured the strings at the nodes, almost by instinct. Europe dictated what was to be grown on English Farms, the quotas and quantities. ‘Eurofizz’, lager was now fashionable It was taking over from the traditional bitter in even the grubbiest of village pubs as yet undiscovered by the new breed of incomers, not only to the village pubs , but increasingly to the shape of rural society: the yuppies. Even Zeb asked for lager across the formica bar of the Prince of Wales now. It was cool. He had bought a brand new Ford Capri, at which Alfie White, his employer , shook his head and observed that it had thus come to the point where the farm labourer could afford to buy a better car than the farmer who owned the land and paid the workforce.
Norman chanted his mantra at me, as we trained and widdled the bines in early summer, once they had broken ground and trailed the pale green triffid-like plants across the loam, ‘runner beans grows away from the sun, the hops they grows towards the sun, ‘ meaning that we were to give them a helping hand up the wires by making sure we twisted them clockwise.
Every September , more or less since I could remember, the dusky late Summer nights had been heavy with the aroma of roasting hops, which drifted from the octagonal towered kiln in the Village street across the fields and meadows and into my bedroom window .It was a timeless smell, redolent of warmth , fecund darkness and flickering winter fires, mulled ale. It was also crisp and green, insinuating, like Spring, It was at once an outside and an inside smell, intoxicating like a drug.
Summer 1974 was the last official Summer of my childhood. My eighteenth birthday fell during hop harvest, and I would be leaving the village behind before the next one, going out into the world. Farmer Mike collared me on the last day of the summer holidays, and told me to be there on Tuesday after school for the hopping. I demured, I would have too much studying for important exams that year. No one on the farm had any respect for exam results , but much as I wished to stay seventeen and pretend to be an agricultural labourer forever, I knew I should never be allowed. My parents had not even allowed me to change my options and apply for agricultural college. My days of being carefree were at an end. Mike did not insist. He looked at me with what I took to be contempt and said he would prefer it if I could just spare one more week, all things considered, if I was to be leaving them for the rest of my life, surely another week wouldn’t hurt. There were not as many gypsy families coming as used to, the village women were all working in offices and he didn’t know ‘ow we was going to get through. I told him that Tuesday was my birthday, so I really didn’t want to work, and my parents would expect me home from school. Mike had a way of looking at you, his eyes like a baby seal, so Tuesday saw me get off the number 9 bus in the middle of the village and trail up the lane , dump my school bag in the barn where I kept my boots and overalls and wander out to the hop garden which was adjacent to the farmyard.
I was a little cross because I felt that I had been lied to. The machine shed was shaking from the clanking of the rollers and cogs and the roof practically jumping with the noise of what seemed to be fifty women in bright aprons and headscarves cackling and shouting. The men were red faced and sweating, manhandling the seven foot pockets. Nearly every man woman and child in the village was there, along with several of the dark skinned gypsies. I could see Zeb hooking down bines , his face screwed up against the sun, two deep welts from the sharp serrated leaves across his cheek with blood beads dried unheeded , thick gloves on his hands. Six of his many brothers stood at intervals along the row with their poles, dragging the bines down to the intinerant workers who loaded them carefully onto the carts and brought them to the machine shed, where more of them fed the bines to the great clanking monster which stripped the cones from the stems and shuffled them down the belts where the women’s hands moved deftly to pick out all leaves and pieces of bine so that only the cones dropped into the bushel baskets which were then tipped into the long hessian pockets.
Junie grabbed me as I made my way through to go into the garden. ‘You stand by me ‘ere and pick leaves wi‘ us, young’un’. She said, pushing me into the group of women in a line by the rolling belts. They all laughed gap toothed , russet- apple chuckles at me. ‘Can’t I go out with Zeb and the men, Junie?’
‘No ‘til you knows what you is a doin’ young’un. Bezoides, you intelickules is too dellycat for proper work,' she teased
‘Bugger orf Junie, I’m a man today, Junie. I am 18’
The laughter of women rose above the machine, faces loomed like a hundred ‘green men’, and in the shadows of the bines women with hairy faces and men with smooth sun burned skin teemed, tumbling in the noise of cogs and rollers, the sticky green dusty light, and overpowering, soporific hop fug made me feel like I was on a surreal trip. Suddenly the machinery stopped. The silence was relieved when Alfie called for the break for tea , the buzz of voices resuming as soon as it was sure that the machine had not eaten a child this time.
Junie told me to go up to the house and tell Mrs Mike and Mrs Alfie that the hop-pickers had stopped for tea. I always obeyed Junie. I trotted off and on the way back stopped to go to the toilet. There was no light in the Kazi. I had barely started when there was the banging of a fist on the door. ‘hurry up, there’s a queue out here young’un.’
‘Coming won’t be a sec‘
I opened the rickety planked door. The sun poured into the outhouse blinding me. No- one wore sunglasses, even though the men’s faces were upturned to the sky all day as they pulled down the bines. I blinked as I thought I had emerged like a lone performer on a stage before a full house. I had. There must have been a hundred people standing in the yard, but it was they who were singing ’Happy Birthday’ and Junie and Norman carried a board with a massive cake flaming with candles. Ruddy , gurning female faces, sweaty male faces were thrust into mine, kissing me, congratulating me, making lewd jokes. Zeb kissed me on the mouth, held me in a long hug. ’You, I don’ care what them posh folk say, you, you be one of us and allas will be’. I felt the tears come, fall on Zeb, make tracks on my dusty face. I said the hops were making my eyes sting. Which they were.
Some one asked me what I wuz goin’ a do wiv all that skoolin’ and at that moment I just wanted to stay there in among the gypsies, the villagers, the farm workers, this buzzing mass of timeless humanity. I wanted time to freeze right there, preserve the moment forever in the hop resin. I wanted to be part of them all forever, never leave the land, never leave the people who worked it, my village, my people. It was the first and last time I ever belonged anywhere. I mean really belonged.
As it happened, the first time I was to exercise my new adulthood and vote was a few months later in the referendum in 1975 to join the European Community. I felt that I had betrayed them all, betrayed my own roots, betrayed my friends, but I knew that we could not survive in economic and agricultural isolation. The world was changing. I don’t know if I was right to vote yes , but I was not the only one. Enough people did for it to happen. I suppose we did not entirely understand just how much traditional things like the hop garden would change forever. We maybe thought that the garden would lay fallow for a year or so and then the hops would grow again as they always had.
I had never imagined 33 years later to stumble across the stark words that the last hop harvest in the village was in 1974, and to be taken back to that day of lasts and firsts, to find that perhaps I did stay there after all, in that moment whose essence is preserved in every stray wild hop in a summer hedgerow twisting towards the sun, in every kiss that lasts a fraction too long and in that special place where first times and last times are stored.
http://freespace.virgin.net/churchcrookham.home/history/hops.htm
Some other pictures of hop picking in the 1970s to illustrate can be found at this site about Bodiam.
hop stringing
http://www.bygonebodiam.co.uk/hop%20stringing.htm
Hop training and widdling
http://www.bygonebodiam.co.uk/Hop%20Training.htm
The machine
http://www.bygonebodiam.co.uk/Machine%20Picking%20-%20At%20the%20Picking%20Machine.html